Trail Day 2

Friday, February 3, 2012

It was an early morning. 7:20 a.m. I was wide awake staring at my tent sagging under the weight of the snow that had fallen through the night. This was one of those wake-ups that where you know, from the moment you open your eyes, that you're not going back to sleep. No more putting it off, I was finally gonna start ticking down the mileage.

Breaking down camp actually proved to be an adventure in itself. I couldn't keep my hands warm enough to do all the dexterous things necessary to get my tent packed away Even with my insulated leather gloves on, the metal of the poles would suck the heat from my fingers. It was to a point where I had to breathe on each of the joints of my poles just to get them seperated. To give you an idea of how long that would take, my tent has around 25 joints. Breaking camp took a bit longer than expected, needless to say.

I walked up the FR leading into the parking lot near the trailheads. It was easy walking and I made it in good time. In order to get the southernmost section of the trail, The Mexico-America border, The AZT makes you backtrack. If you're going S-N or even if you're going N-S, I'd recommend stashing your pack and doing the hike on foot. You'll come right back by. I brisk walked my way down to tag the border and made my way back to the parking lot and my pack. I got out my tent to dry and had the first dose of what would later become the absolute scourge of my entire existence, oatmeal. Thanks to oatmeal, I now have a serious taste aversion to the combination of Apples and Cinnamon. Anyways, at that time, I didn't mind as much so I jammed it down, packed up my tent, and set off north, north, ever north!

It was pretty good going. There was sunshine streaming from the sky and a pleasant chill in the air. The trail to Millers Peak is awesome. It's high elevation gain(Miller's Peak is 9,400 ft. and the trail goes to 9,100 ft.) with minimal switchbacks. The trail curves and bends it's way up the mountain which allows you to take in the nearly constant vistas of the surrounding area. To be fair, it is pretty tough. You gain around 3,000 feet over the course of 6 miles. There's no flat walking, but at least it isn't just a straight path up the mountain!

I want to say that this was my favorite section of the trail, really, I do. But my happiness was rather dampened by the ultra fresh powder that was on the trail from the trailhead.

I could see walking in snow to be a very fun endeavor. Find a cute winter boo and leisurely stroll arm in arm through the rolling dunes of snow. Even if the snow were maybe a foot deep, I think it would be fun. You kick out your feet as you walk and powdery snow crystals billow up sprinkle on the two of you.

My day was nothing like this.

From the moment I hit 7,500 to when I made camp at 9,100, it was constant post-holing. Like I said, that's all well and good for a little walk through town, but combine that with a 60 pound pack, decreasing oxygen levels due to elevation, and an incline and suddenly it is a very large inconvenience. Even more than an inconvenience actually. A serious problem. Since so much snow had fallen the night before, it made my going very difficult and slow. It got to the point where I was so exhausted and out-of-breath that I couldn't go 100 feet with out resting. This went on just about all day after 12. I finally reached the highest point in the trail at around 4:45. At this point I was at the junction where the AZT veers left and the Millers peak summit trail continues straight, bending slightly right. *Quick side note, During December in Arizona it sunset is at around 5:15 and headlamps are a necessity if you don't want to walk into a cactus of two at around 5:50. This was not where I had planned on camping and I didn't really want to camp here since it was covered with about 2 feet of snow evenly, but it would also be dark soon and the temperature was already dropping. At 9,100 I knew it would be very cold, very fast.

At this point something rather interesting happen. With a combination of my utter exhaustion from the day and the sharp increase in altitude, I began to feel what I have come to dub exhaustion/elevation sickness(clever aren't I?). I couldn't seem to maintain a steady train of thought and I kept thinking the wrong things. It gets weirder though. I seemed to sort of "zoom out" on my thought process. Like everything that was going through my head was in a spread out timeline. I could see what it was I was thinking and I knew it wasn't the right thing, but I just couldn't seem to stop thinking it. I forced my self to focus and be aware of my own exhaustion and how it would effect my decision making skills. I laid out all my options and weighed each one.

Thankfully, I was able to talk my self into throwing down my tent right where I was and crashing  off the trail. I got everything set up at around 6 and popped back outside for a moment before settling down for the night.

Now, I've seen a lot sunsets, and what's more, I've seen a lot of beautiful sunsets. But there is definitely something to be said for the sunsets of the Southwest. I have never seen a skyline with so much imbued warm colors. There's an array of red and orange highlighted with a effervescent lilac. I won't try and convey it's beauty with words because, well, if you've ever seen a sunset, you'll know it's just never the same. I'll just say that if you ever decide to go to the Southwest, you have a treat in store for yourself every night. I stood and stared until my knees started knocking. My sleeping bag was a welcome experience.

Trail day 1

Monday, January 30, 2012

Maybe I should re-title this post since I technically wasn't on the actual "trail". I was sleeping out though. I think that should count.

To remind everyone, this was the day after the post "Day 1". I delayed because of rain, choosing to drive to the trailhead a day later than planned. So, the day I was supposed to start hiking, I was instead waking up in a warm comfy bed and having fresh waffles made in the kitchen. So posh.

It was still raining outside when I woke up, but the forecast said it was supposed to clear up, so I pulled he trigger. I was tired of waiting and very anxious to get there, even if I was only going to sleep at the trailhead. Kevin, who lives in Tucson and is a good family friend, gave me a ride down to the Coronado National Memorial. We stopped to grab some gas right before we entered the forest and at that point winds were somewhere at 25mph and it was still raining. Do I want to wait another day, Kevin asks. No way. I'm all for this. Hah.

Skip ahead a bit, and I find out there is no overnight camping on the National Memorial. Kevin and I begin scouring the VERY rocky roadside for possible places that are outside of the Memorial boundaries and where I can sneak my tent in. After about 30 minutes of scouring, and only coming up with a 3% grade turnaround for a campsite, I decide to ask the Border Patrol(who are parked on the even, well groomed parking lot) if they know of any nearby places I could throw my tent down and hopefully get them to make an exception and let me stay in the parking lot. Of course, it was a no to the latter.

I ended up staying in a wash 1.3 miles down the hill from the parking lot. Walked around a little bit when the rain held off, but stayed close to camp in case it came back in full force, which it did. Of course when I was at the top of a nearby peak taking pictures. No problem. Made it down and jumped in my tent. By now it was 5:30ish so I was ready to pack it in anyways. Hopped in my sleeping bag, ate one of the two sandwiches Kevin had left with me and drifted to sleep.

I was awoken by a big Mag-Lite flashlight flitting back and forth over my tent. Almost like someone was looking for something. All the warnings I'd read about the volatile illegal activity ran through my head. Drug runners, automatic weapons, kidnappings. It all be came very real in that moment. My hand unconsciously went for my pocket knife.

"Mark! That you?" is what I heard next. Big breath of air that I didn't know I'd been holding flushed out of my lungs.

It was the Forest Ranger I'd talked to on the parking lot. Kevin had asked him to come check on me. Thanks for the near heart attack Kev! Haha, but really, I was glad he did. The patrolman and I chatted for a bit and planned to link back up before I left the next morning. "You never know, I may be the last person you see!" Ok, Officer Ominous, way to make we worry. We shook hands a final time and I went back into my sleeping bag.

The thing is, I closed my eyes that night not thinking about what the Patrolman had said, but rather about the downpour of shock-white snow that had been streaming down around us as he had said it.

"Tomorrow should be good," I thought to myself as a small smile crept on my lips.